Page 1 of 1

Tom you gotta do an extensive bed level guide/video

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 9:06 am
by layz1307
This is byfar the biggest nightmare of 3dp.

I have one printer thats been sitting here doing nothing since Christmas 2016. I have another sitting here not doing much since feb 2017.

Bed levelling is just a complete nightmare, or just having the bed on springs at all is a nightmare period.

Getting the printhead to not be rammed into the bed or be too high is a complete nightmare. Continuing on this trying to adjust your messed up z axis being too high in the slicer is a nightmare and unreliable.

Not even one good print yet because my first layers are always complete and total shit for one reason or another. Tramming/levelling is almost completely unimportant because I cant even get to where those steps matter theres always bigger problems. Altering where my switch is causes a huge redo in everything else and never ends up where it needs to be its just the biggest fuckup/bad design of the entire 3d printer.

I have designs of non spring loaded bed holders to keep the bed near flush but dont want to print one out yet due to not being able to get a good first layer. Why bother with the trash design if its held in place properly with something like polycarbonate? What makes the springs a good design vs static bed and switch areas?

Re: Tom you gotta do an extensive bed level guide/video

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:54 am
by Moorviper

Re: Tom you gotta do an extensive bed level guide/video

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 5:13 am
by Stefan
Moorviper: beat me to it!

Boy, Tom's English has improved since then. :lol:

Re: Tom you gotta do an extensive bed level guide/video

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:13 am
by Moorviper
yes and this video is also available in german :D

Re: Tom you gotta do an extensive bed level guide/video

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 3:19 pm
by Mozella
I'm new to 3d printing, but I've not had any bed leveling problems. Here's how I do it.
My Tevo Black Widow, running Marlin firmware, has a pretty large build plate on springs. I have a BL Touch sensor and use Octoprint. These two things make life MUCH easier. If you don't have them, consider installing them at a cost of well under 100 bucks.

I run the bed spring adjusting nuts all the way tight and then back off each one about 3/4 of a turn.
Then I move the print head to all four corners and using a piece of paper as a feeler gauge I adjust the spring screws to level the bed. I do that again so that all 4 corners get adjusted twice.
Next I home the print head which has a BL Touch sensor. The BL Touch, or some similar sensor is the key to making bed leveling easy.
I set the Z offset in the usual way using these commands: M851, M851 Z0, G28, G1 Z0. Then I manually lower the head to nearly touch the bed using a piece of paper as a feeler gauge. I note the Z value and then send M851 Z (put the measured Z axis value in here, it should be negative).
And finally I send a M500 command so that the printer remembers the Z axis offset.

To fine tune the bed I do an auto home and then, using a handy (and free) Octoprint plug-in, I perform an Auto Bed-level Visualization update. This gives me a pictorial view of the bed and from that I can read the altitude of each corner. If necessary I fine tune the bed mounting screws, often by less than 1/16 turn, based on the data from the Bed Visualization plug in. It's quite easy to get the bed with in .02 mm of dead-level and most of the time my bed corners are out by less than .01 mm.

The bed level pictorial is automatically updated via a bed level routine before each print and once in a while I tweak the corner spring adjusting nut by a tiny bit, especially if it took extra effort to remove the previously printed part from the bed.

This post is rather long, but the actual hardware, software, cost, and user effort to achieve good bed leveling is something so easy and affordable that everyone should be able to achieve bed leveling Nirvana.